EYC presentation

EYC Presentation

EYC STEM Meeting - Tuesday 13 March 2001

Summary

In the summer of 2000, the 57' Swan yacht "Celerity" cruised for four months in the Greek islands, the Turkish coast, parts of Italy and returned to Mallorca, travelling the areas where Odysseus and the apostle Paul travelled.

Approach - Panel / questions during / afterward / items on table / web reference / handout
Resources / book and photos on side table - web page http://www.mgb67.com/celerity.htm (Photos, notes, diary, references)
Members / introductions
Topics
- Best island - Astipalea, Patmos, Kefalonia(Fiskardo), Kos, Sivota (stayed there a couple of extra days), Galaxidi (mainland), Samos
- Best area - Ionian Islands, Galaxidi, Keci Buku (Turkey), Wall Bay (Manistiri Koyu / Turkey), Ekincik ("My Marina" / Turkey), Bodrum yacht harbor (Turkey), Costa Smeralda (Sardinia)
- Best food - Gaymond's moussaka, Italian food in Capri, Corfu Palace Hotel (Corfu, Greece), Hilton Hotel (Athens), Italian wines, American food on the boat, restaurants in Galaxidi, gyros at fast food place in Corinth, Xenos cafe in Athens
- Best gear - SWAN 57 - unquestioned integrity and fine performance, watermaker, Furuno radar (especially "trail"), rollers on mainsail track (easy takedowns in high winds), swim platform
- Anchoring - Often, in volcano, using radar, watching Turkish tour boats and Italian tanker and ferries anchor, sailing into an anchorage when the motor failed (Aigina), other boats often too close
- Weather and winds - Know the Beaufort force numbers, as everything is reported in "force". The winds are the most important (forget the currents), and they can get very strong very quickly, so be prepared. Also be pepared to stay in port for several days if needed (e.g. Bonifacio, Ponza)
  Best sources:
  - Italy - VHF CH 86 (??) - Continuous in Italian and English
  - Greece - One no longer prays to the gods but goes to their web site at: http://www.poseidon.ncmr.gr/weather_forecast.htm for a great pictorial 48-hour forecast. Very useful
  - As usual, ask marina operators, look for weather postings at marinas and coast guard offices, and talk to other boats.
  - You can see the rain squalls coming on the Furuno radar
  - Barometer not a lot of help in predicting winds
  - During "meltemi", winds can be 20-25 knots all evening
  - Old tales work well: Clouds on mountain tops on clear days = strong meltemi winds; dry decks in the morning = strong winds; wet decks in the morning = little wind.
  - Winds can be relatively light inside the harbor and can be really rough outside.
- Best sights to see (on water) - Corinth canal, Amalfi coast (Italy), Thira/Santorini, boat tour to tombs in Caunos, straights between Italy and Sicily, dodging heavy ferry traffic (Italy, Patra)
- Best sights to see (on land) - Athens archeological museum, Delphi, old areas around Corinth, Efesus (Turkey), Epidarus, Delos island, Patmos island, Thira/Santorini, Amalfi
- Good things to bring - Wasabi sauce (ours was stale), some American food (peanut butter, Bisquick, Crystal Light drink powder, cornstarch), cheap panoramic camera, non-US non-800 phone numbers to call if your have problems with credit cards or airline reservations (1-800 numbers do not work from Europe), a camera with a zoom lens, ziploc bags (about 20), safety pins, my own harness and tether, Qtips (20), extra washcloth, extra pillowcase (dirty clothes, etc.), phone numbers of all your friends in Europe, changeable airline tickets (along with the non-800 number to change them), ATM card(s), backup money in case ATM's don't work
- Things not to bring - Inflatable PFD (too heavy). heavy cosmetics (sunblock, etc.)
- Clothing - Coat and tie only for church services and for VERY upscale restaurants - slacks and a nice shirt will do everywhere. The weather was very warm, so little is needed (e.g. no socks from July until September). 100% cotton sounds fine but it NEVER dries out - synthetics are better. Even stainless lifelines can stain your drying clothes.
- Communication - Very good cell phone coverage almost everywhere, used cell phone / portable PC for our email, cybercafes are widely/wildly different (logon times, xfr rates, keyboards). Needed to tell recipients of our email to DOUBLE-click on the attachment icon.
- Ideas for "next time"
  - 10-meter markings on anchor chain
  - Better ways to receive weather reports
  - Use airport at Bodrum (Turkey)
  - Bring non-US 1-800 numbers for banks, airlines
- Not-so-good things - Greek taxis...not there or high-priced, waiting for the dinner check in Greece and in Mallorca, very high-pressure salesmen in Turkish bazaars, Greek wine, hotel air conditioning can hum or drip but not cool, other boats (mainly German) anchoring too close to us, non-existent hotel (Aigina) but it had a great web page, lack of laundromats, surges from ferryboats in small harbors (Amalfi, etc.)
- Notes on Athens - Athens is a big city, with HOT weather, like Los Angeles The Archeological Museum is a must as is the Parthenon (which closes at 6PM!). Dinner at Xenos cafe (in the Plaka); Lunch buffet at Hilton (fancy but very good) Take streetcar to/from ferry port and take high-speed ferries to see sights
- Highlights
  - Heading for the rocks near Mykonos in 47-knot winds [Cindy]
  - Watching the bitter end of the anchor chain go overboard [Mike McG]
  - Re-anchoring during a nighttime storm, using the radar [Gaymond]
  - Anchoring, shopping and eating in Capri [Mike C]
  - "Shore leave" - staying in hotels with friends, showers and baths, "air conditioning", train trips, etc.
  - Visiting historic sites and small museums[Marylyn]
- Best overall
  - Travelling in a historic part of the world
  - An adventure every day
  - Great people on the boat - experienced sailors, very good companions, very good cooks
  - Night crossings, best with stars and no rain
  - We ate very well, both on the boat and on shore